Self portraits of me trying to look tough! LOL
“I’m different, yeah I’m different
Pull up to the scene with my ceiling missing
Pull up to the scene with my ceiling missing
Middle finger up to my competition” – 2 Chainz
When I turned on my heater, it was not getting that hot so I did some research and realized that I had AIR in the cooling system. There are two ways to get this air out, Manually: where yo run the car to operational temperature then you bleed the system. Another is witha a Pressure Tester(Below). It will put pressure on the system.
-Fill the coolant reservoir to between the minimum and maximum marks.
-Obtain a coolant system pressure tester and attach it to the coolant reservoir.
-If you don’t have a tester, many of the better auto parts stores will loan you one.
-Pressurize the coolant system slowly until a steady stream of coolant comes out of the vent. Do not exceed 10 psi pressure.
-Close the vent.
Check out the paint and the wheels………LOL
This is an easy fix for my car because I have no power steering.
1. I just jacked the car up.
2. Grabbed a 8″ adjustable wrench and loosen the oil pressure sending unit. Some oil dripped out, but not much because there was no oil in the car.
3. I immediately inserted the new one.
I didnt know the torque specs for the sending unit. BUT, when Reconnecting the wires to the terminals of the new sending unit I broke a F#CKING ground terminal. THANK GOD it it snapped near the middle so I still could get the terminal on by rigging the bolts. Special thanks to Clark’s Garage.
This was easy, especially since I replaced the fuel lines which was a pain in the a$$. I had seepage in the lines so I decided to go ahead and replace them since I had the car in the air.
1. Using a 19mm wrench, unscrew lines from radiator. You can unscrew the top bolt from the top and the bottom one from under the car. Have a rag or bucket for the transmission fluid that’s going to leak. Be sure not to damage washers. Replace if needed.
2. Pry the clamps of the hoses near the motor side. I used a hammer and a precision flat head screwdriver.
3. Using a razor, disconnect the metal fittings from old hose.
4. I used Hayden Cooling Transmission hose cooling kit from Pep Boys. Pic Below.
5. Clamp on the new hose to fittings
6. Screw fittings back into the radiator.
7. Clamp back on to the motor.
8. Turn car on and check transmission fluid.
So I was forced to change my front strut cartridges, busted ball joints, and a tie rod end on the 944. From my research, this was suppose to be a 90 minute job. I did it in four…..days, loosing time because of lack of tools, and my car got towed by the city without the wheels. (THOSE BASTARDS) Anyway…………….
1. With the car on ground with the tires on. Remove the top strut nut.(Everyone said use an impact wrench which I did not have. So I tried it by hand at first…WHAT WAS I THINKING)
So I took it down to Harry at the Joe’s Mobil Service (Franklin and Argyle) and he backed the nut out with the impact wrench. Thanks Harry.
2. Jack up front of car on stands high enough to clear wheels by a few inches. Remove the wheels and sway bar drop link.
3. Push down the control arm far enough to drop the strut shaft from the upper mount and carefully pull it clear of the front fender. If your shocks were toast like mine were, the assembly will just fall out..LOL
4. With the strut clear of the fender you can pull the spring easily. Remove the threaded cap on the housing.(This took me a while because I was using a oil filter remover, go get a pipe wrench from Home Depot and save yourself some sunlight and self esteem.) Check the level of the existing oil in the housing with a pipe cleaner or something.
5. This part was tough to me. I put the strut protector on. Then I put the spring on. One the spring was on I push the strut down and locked it in place with vise grip pliers. I carefully slipped the strut assembly back under the fender. Took my jack and raised the control arm while guiding the shaft back into the upper mount. Make sure the spring is are set correctly correctly and re-installl the upper strut nut by hand.
6. If just doing struts. Put the wheels back on, lower the car, bounce it several times to make sure it seats, and use an impact on the upper nut.
BUT my ball joints were shot so now that I had the struts assembled and jacked up, I decided to REPLACE MY BALL JOINTS.
1. I pushed down on the control arm to expose the broken ball joint.
2. The early 944 ball joints were riveted in. The replacement ball joints bolt in. So using a drill and drill bits for metal, I dipped the small drill bit in oil and slowly started drilling. (I used a 9.8v drill so the battery needed recharging a couple of times which added to the time.) Once I had a hole through the control arm, I switch to a bigger bit. One I had the bigger hole through the control arm, I used a big flat head screwdriver and a hammer to pry the rivet heads off giving me a clean piece of metal.